Well, some kind sole here in Bahia Concepcion is allowing public wireless access to their satellite uplink for 1 hour a day.  So through this link (there’s no phones here) I’m able to update some of our website.  Check out the 6 new photos in the Photo Gallery of Baja Mexico!

Well, we spent a couple of weeks moving up the sea from Loreto.  We met up with Loon III and Icarian in the roadstead anchorage at Loreto and explored the town together.  For cruisers, this means wandering every street looking for the freshest produce, cheapest internet connection, cheapest beer, and fuel (and for those of us without refrigeration, ice).  We did manage to visit the old Mission museum, which was kind of interesting but that was about all we had time for site-seeing.  When we couldn’t walk another step, we headed back to the boats, weighed anchor and headed to Isla Coronado for the night, just a few miles away.  Sherrell and I decided to stay an extra night at Coronado and watched the sting rays jumping all over like popcorn.  We then went on to La Ramada, just north of our intended destination of Caleta San Juanico to get out of the strong SE winds and swell.  We found Loon and Icarian hiding in there as well and they showed us a nice hike that went over to the bay.  Gazing out on the beautiful bay of San Juanico, we all decided that we should move there.  No to mention there was a strange Northerly swell that rolled us from side to side making it very unpleasant and the late night Katabatic winds blew like a banshee from the west all night long.

There seemed to be no good summer refuge in this area, as we tried to hide behind some rocky reefs and rocks from the SE winds in San Juanico, while we explored the beaches and snorkeled.  But despite the beauty, after 3 days of suffering the steep wind waves, we left the other boats and did a long haul (12 hours) to Bahia Concepcion—a much more protected area.

On the way up, we had north winds the entire way, while the other boats down in San Juanico still had strong SE.  So as luck would have it, our own personal headwinds forced us to motor-sail almost the entire way.  We did see a large school of dolphins who leapt 6+ feet out of the water in unison, many large manta rays doing perfect back flips, and Boobies (the avian type) trying to land on our boat for a free ride.

Anyway, we’re going to hang out in this area for a while, before heading further north.  If you’re able to read this, then through the miracle of technology and the generosity of someone here, we are connecting to you via a wireless link that is routed through a satellite connection once a day at 7-8 am.  There are no phones here, no power, but we’ve found ice, some provisions and lots of little protected islands to explore.

We`re in Loreto for a few hours to reprovision and get some fuel. We were unable to bum a ride from Puerto Escondido to Loreto by land, so we went by boat. The anchorage is sketchy, so we have to shop then bolt.
Anyway, Sheila made it back to Seattle ok. Her bus from La Paz broke down in dramatic style, smoke and all. The driver managed to nurse it to a town where they could get some tools to work on it and get it running again. Fortunately, she had plenty of time for her flight, and eventualy made it back with about 4 billion sea shells, all intact.
The water here is getting clearer and the sea life is really amazing. I`ve been a snorkling fiend, but we can watch the fish from the boat just as easily. Manta Rays leap out of the water, dolphins feed in the bays, and large schools of fish move like clouds through the water. FANTASTIC!
So we plan to keep working north to Santa Rosalia then on to Bahia de Los Angeles. But we are going to hit as many anchorages as possible along the way. We are also planning on doing a hike where you have to ford a river and swim up some canyons! We probably won`t have email access until Rosalia in two weeks or so, so we hope everyone is doing well!

Sheila, Sherrell and I all stood patiently on the side of a dusty highway
at 7 am waiting hopefully for a bus. Life is sometimes surreal. We told
the port captain that we needed to catch the bus to La Paz (in our broken
Spanish) and he called the bus office in Loreto where the station is to
request that the driver on such and such day look for us at this juntion
and pick us up. Often these things work better than you might expect.
But when you haul all your junk 2 miles out into the dusty unknown slowly
baking in the morning sun, you have to wonder if your Spanish skills were
really up to the task. Perhaps somewhere there was a taxi driver circling
around looking for us, or maybe they are trying to deliver a pizza to us.

I`m pretty sure the port captain told us to make sure we were there before
8am in case the bus was early. And I`m pretty sure we got the day and
place right. But an hour later we were getting hot and beginning to
wonder.

Just as we were discussing what time we should give up waiting, the big
fancy bus rolled up the hill, pulled over, and picked up Sheila and
Sherrell and off they went.

I had previously arranged to go hiking into the Arroyo (canyon) nearby
with another couple. They wanted to go eary, 6am. But they still hadn`t
shown. I figured they bailed, but halfway back to the waterfront they
appeared, and we got to hiking.

The arroyo was a deep cut inside massive steep mounts called the Giants.
It was filled with carved rocks, trees, birds and a few pools of water.
As we climbed further up into the arroyo we had to climb through rock
caves and caverns that we could barely fit our bodies through. We kept
climbing until we reached an impass. It was hot and we didn`t feel like
exerting oursleves climbing the next set of cliff like boulders. So we
just took in the view.

Reddish rocks, green trees and lots of birds (humming birds, bright red
cardnals) were all over the place. Sometime when we find a place to hook
up the computer we`ll get them posted!

For now, though, Sherrell will be back tomorrow and Sheila will be at home
in Seattle. We plan to head further north and enjoy some island time!

Well we took Sheila on a whirlwind tour from La Paz to Puerto Escondido by
way of Isla Partida (2 days), San Evaristo (1 day), Agua Verde (3 days),
and then a hot springs and finally here. She is no longer a land lubber
and she has a new understanding of why we spend most of our days dealing
with logistical challenges.

We saw dolphins, tropical fish, coral, sea birds, goats, and lots and lots
of sun. Agua Verde was very beautiful, we enjoyed swimming, hiking and
watching the fish swim around our boat. The water was a clear aqua color
and the visibility was about 35 feet.

Sherrell is going to travel with Sheila by bus down to La Paz leaving me
by my lonesome for a couple of days. Naturally I have a list of crap that
needs to be fixed while she is gone.

We heard the first Hurricane of the season has already struck El Salvador.
This is the first E. Pacific Hurricane to move eastward in recorded
history. Normally this time of year they move out towards sea. It could
be an interesting year for hurricanes, so the further north we go, the
safer we'll be. If you look closely on a map, you might be able to spot
the biggest town near us, Loreto.

There's lots of sea life all around.  Just here in the anchorage we've seen dolphins jumping out of the water and chasing fish.  Dolphin & Pelican

Here's a photo from the anchorage in Isla Partida.  Check out the aqua-marine colored water.  The visibility north of La Paz reaches up to 120 feet in the summer.  It is currently about 40 feet near La Paz.  It's fun to watch all the animals just swimming around beneath the boat like our own personal aquarium.  Island Near La Paz

After going back and forth between our labs in Seattle and we finally were able to compare test results against the feline norm. As luck would have it, our $1000 procedure 3 years ago to treat her HYPERthyroid condition worked too well. Now she has a rare condition where her thyroid isn't working as well as it should. Apparently nothing severe happens to hypothyroid cats, she needs to undergo some treatment with medication. Due to her age of 14 years, the vet said it wasn't urgent, so maybe well wait until we are back to the mainland of Mexico

On the lighter side of things, our free inflatable is still an inflatable and our patches are holding. The weather is nice and hot and only a week to go before Sheila hits and we can get underway.

We've seen belly dancing, been to the dentist and took the cat to the
vet. It's like we've moved here. I think this town has the same problem
as Mazatlan - it's hard to leave.

Fortunately, we saw an environmental presentation downtown the other
night about the schools of whale sharks that give birth in an area north
of here that was just amazing, so that's got us motivated to keep
moving. Apparently this is one of the few places in the world where
whale sharks give birth (they travel 5000+ miles) and the government
wants to build a massive resort and golf course right in the area where
they calf. Perfect, isn't it?

We finished patching our inflatable dinghy -- one that we pulled from
the trash and put about 19 patches on. Actually, it's not as bad as it
sounds, it cleaned up nicely and it's a big dinghy. It will be perfect
for snorkeling and carrying more than 2 people. It folds up pretty
small, and you can't beat free. We'll probably inflate it tomorrow and
see if we got the last of all the little leaks.

Oh, we also met another Mariah 31 owner who is ordering sails from our
sail maker in Port Townsend. She was encouraging the Mariah owner to
contact us (not knowing we where in Mexico) when he was looking out in
the bay and saw us anchored there. It's a small world when it comes to
boats.

This is a nice town with 4 (four!) marine stores.  There’s a great vegetarian restaurant and the weather here is much dryer than on the mainland.  We got up to 94F the other day and didn’t even really notice it.  Pretty hot considering it’s only April!  We’ve been checking into places to provision and making preparations for Sherrell’s mom’s visit.  It’s amazing how much time all these things take to get setup. 

There’s a ton of gringos here, which strongly influences everything.  It’s like a mini San Diego.  For the first time we were able to find Kalamata Olives and Dr. Pepper!  There’s also a lot of damage from hurricane Marty in 2003.  From our anchorage, we can see no less than 3 masts still sticking up out of the water and the docks and yards are full of boats that are severely battered.  Lots of them have been gutted and abandoned.  A sad reminder that the hurricane season is approaching so we’ll have to head north soon to get out of the storm tracks.